Queluz Palace: Portuguese Rococo, halfway to Sintra

The National Palace of Queluz began in 1747 as a summer residence for Prince Pedro, the future Pedro III, and grew over decades into the official residence of the court. The initial design is by Mateus Vicente de Oliveira; the more decorative phase, with the French Rococo language that defines the building, belongs to the goldsmith and architect Jean-Baptiste Robillion.

It is a palace on a domestic scale, painted pink and white, with state rooms that feel small next to their European counterparts — and that is precisely what makes it pleasant to visit. It does not exhaust you.

What to see

• The Throne Room. The most decorated space, with mirrors, gilding and a painted ceiling. This is the moment Queluz tries to be Versailles.
• The Ambassadors' Hall. A chequerboard marble floor and a ceiling showing the court gathered at a concert.
• The Don Quixote Chamber. A circular room set inside a square plan, decorated with scenes from Cervantes. Pedro IV of Portugal, the first emperor of Brazil, was both born and died here.
• The formal gardens. Clipped box, lead statuary brought from England, and fountains. Far more symmetrical than anything in Sintra.
• The Tiled Canal. A watercourse lined with 18th-century tile panels along the stream. The most original element of the whole ensemble.